Bye-Bye Basil

August 17, 2009

If your basil looks anything like the picture below then you might not have been aggressive enough with your scissors this summer. Not that I’m casting blame. Every plant in my front garden has grown tall and lanky despite my best efforts.   I think local weather this season was conducive to bolting.

While the flowers may be fun to look at they aren’t exactly indicative of good flavor. Sweet basil flowers like a cranky old man.  Tough leathery leaves have a bitter taste and aroma fairly reminiscent of their tender youthful past. Trimming at this point wont do you much good so now is a great time to yank your plants and devote an evening to pesto.

I’ve pulled all my sweet basil and plucked the most tender leaves while discarding the large tough ones at the base. As for pesto recipes this one works fine. I made a massive double batch and used it all week to flavor pastas and drizzle over garden fresh tomatoes. With the recent heat and humidity it’s hard to believe summer will soon slip away. Devour what’s left of it while you still can.

Basil Flower

Flowering Basil

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Millions of Peaches

August 4, 2009

IMG_2684

I think these farmers are up to something.  On little plastic plates piled high for grubby hands were the sweetest, most perfect representation of peachy pleasure I’d encountered all summer.  I’d been waiting for peach season for weeks and rumors that the rainy Spring was great for stone fruit was fueling desire.

At home with the sweet taste of peach still fresh in my mind  I pealed my bounty with a paring knife while juice collected in my palm and ran down my wrist.  I fumbled with the glistening skinless orbs as they slid around my cutting board hanging on to stubborn pits.

I popped a slice in my mouth and …

This wasn’t the peach I sampled at all.    Tart, a little unyielding and less than flavorful.  A slice from another confirmed my suspicion.  These peaches were good, sure, but they weren’t the massively sweet specimens I’d hoped for and sampled back at the market.

That’s alright though I’ll hold no grudge.   A little booze can make a perspective mate more attractive so I’ll slather these babies in a healthy splash of bourbon and sugar and let things macerate a while.  I’ll top them with a sweet drop biscuit dough and bake them till they’ve reduced to a sweet and sticky filling.  I’ll make a decent peach cobbler with a less than perfect peach.

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Lil’ Choppers

August 3, 2009

Grill books love to tout huge cuts seared over intense flames and finished  slowly over indirect heat. The results are a charred exterior and if you prefer, a wonderfully rare center. It’s a great technique that works for just about everything except fish and chicken but it requires you commit to a sizable [...]

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Defining Madness

July 17, 2009

Standing in my garage next to an old gas grill and a stand alone propane burner I told my friend that I was ready to conduct a follow up test run.  Frank was taken back, noting my burgers were already better than most.
“They were fine” as they were.
“Fine?”
I was comparing myself to the great restaurant [...]

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Meat Popsicle

July 15, 2009

The NY times offers a look into the world of gyro manufacturing today.  With so many food writers bashing processed food as of late it’s interesting to see a journalist cover a big manufacturer and not light fires.  The article itself is alright, but the  accompanying video is borderline disturbing.   Not that it’s unsanitary [...]

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Favorite Chicken Salad

July 10, 2009

Rotisserie birds are made for this shit.  I like to plunge my fingers into tender juicy meat.  Pull flesh from bone.  When it’s hot it leaves my fingers pink.  Nothing fancy or refined about this.  Balance salty, sweet, and crunch, and a breath of spice.
Acid.
Some broiled veg.
Some lovely bread.
It’s chicken salad.
A nice meal.
Favorite Chicken Salad
Ingredients:
1/2 [...]

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Your stove is stupid

July 7, 2009

When I started reading the Comme Ça burger recipe I quickly identified it as one of those techniques that works well in a restaurant, but doesn’t translate perfectly at home because residential ovens don’t pack the same heat.  It’s the same reason roast chicken skin at your favorite bistro is just a little bit crisper, [...]

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A la Plancha

July 1, 2009

They won’t leave me alone.  Today’s NY times piece on burgers has opened up a Pandora’s box of craving.    The same cake tester, potato rolls, handling instructions, pickles and other pointers I’ve been playing with for weeks have been re-arranged and laid out for me in a way that has stoked an absolutely ravenous  burger [...]

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A Letter To My Lunch Lady

June 28, 2009

Dear Anna,
Whoever is in charge of prepping your tidy station has clearly given up. Illuminated by the cold fluorescence of a sneeze guard everything looks a little tired.  But it’s the chicken I want to talk about most – The chicken salad I order every day.  It wouldn’t take much to go from pale postmortem [...]

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Cake Tester Thermometer: Part 2

June 24, 2009

While hunting for the perfect hot dog, I spent some time with Peter Smith at PS-7. There was a lull in the interview so I mentioned my recent steak debacle, and asked him if he ever used cake testers to test the doneness of steak. Peter confirmed I was right to not toss [...]

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