I was disappointed when I opened up the April 09 issue of Bon Appetit. Many of the recipes in the cake section looked worth an hour or two in my kitchen — until I encountered this note at the front of the spread…
How to Measure Flour
Our test kitchen’s preferred method for measuring flour.
A few tablespoons of flour can make the difference between a dry, dense cake and one with a fluffy, tender texture. The amount of flour in our recipes is calculated using the flour measuring technique preferred by the Bon Appétit Test Kitchen. We simply scoop the measuring cup into the flour, then level off the top with the straight edge of a knife.
The problem with this method of measurement is that the end result greatly depends on how much the flour has settled or compacted in its container or bag, and whether you use the sides of the container to aid in your scooping efforts. This Gourmet.com video demonstrates just how much variation is possible. A cup measured the Bon Appetit way comes in at more than 20 grams or three tablespoons heavy.
A quick email to Baked owner Matt Lewis also confirms the pre-scoop, scoop. Though he says “the only way to consistently measure flour is via weight” noting that “flour is an important ingredient and quantities greatly effect baked goods (particularly cookies).” While I realize it’s fighting cultural convention to require every would be baker to run out an buy a scale, (although some are brave enough) I do think it’s import to demonstrate methods consistently and within popular convention.
Now for some recipes on my book shelves I’ll use one method of measure, and for Bon App’s, I’ll have to use another. I just hope Bon Appetit’s readers don’t take their test kitchen’s method and transfer it to other recipes, hoping for consistent results. Baking is hard enough… this tip is a step backward.
