Brunch Cocktails That Don’t Suck

June 11, 2009

Basement Bar Brunches killed the genre with frozen orange juice, syrupy Triple Sec and a bottle of J Roget. I’ve tried to rectify the lost cause with fresh squeezed OJ, Cointreau and decent bubbly but even the most refined ingredients produce something lacking.  It’s time I admit –  mimosas kinda stink.

In an effort to refine my own breakfast drinks I emailed  Derek Brown who tends bar at The Gibson when he’s not handling wine and cocktails at some of D.C.’s finer restaurants.  Describing his perfect morning pick me up Derek said…

…brunch drinks are generally fruit bombs or salty, over-spiced messes. I want a crisp drink with some kind of punch. I want it to remind me that I’m awake and not make me feel like I’m eating gazpacho or fruit puree.

Derek then offered Etouffer un Perroquet.  Pairing Champagne with Brandy and Absinthe this cocktail is far from a fruit bomb and it’s also not for lightweights.  I like thinking out of the box when regulating a hangover, but the classicist in me prefers something more familiar.  Enter Jason Wilson’s attack on the Bloody Mary and his improved “Veggie Red Snapper”.  The editor at Table Matters takes issue with “gloopy tomato-gravy disasters” and offensive celery stalks while creating a familiar, yet lighter and more complex libation.

The only similarity these two cocktails share is garnish of lemon peel, but either is assured to awaken your senses.  For a brunch cocktail menu that abates pounding heads while pleasing the masses I’d recommend making plenty of both.

Etouffer un Perroquet (Strangle the Parakeet)

1 serving

1/2 oz. Brandy
1/2 oz. Absinthe (must be the real deal)
4 oz. Champagne
Combine brandy and absinthe in mixing glass and stir until well chilled. Pour in to flute and add cold Champagne or traditional method sparkler. Cut fresh lemon peel and twist over top, using as a garnish once the citrus oils are expelled.

The Veggie Red Snapper

1 serving

2 ounces cucumber-flavored vodka, preferably Square One brand
2 ounces tomato juice
1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1/4 ounce freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 dashes celery bitters, such as the Bitter Truth brand (may substitute a pinch of celery salt)
Pince fine sea salt
Pince freshly ground black pepper
Pinch cayenne pepper
Twist of lemon peel, for garnish

Fill a cocktail shaker halfway with ice. Add the vodka, tomato juice, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, celery bitters, salt, black and cayenne peppers. Shake well for at least 15 seconds, then strain into an ice-filled highball glass.

Garnish with the twist of lemon peel.

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